On June 9-10, 1962 I climbed 12,123' Olancha Peak on a 20 mile round trip with the San Diego Sierra Club Rock Climbing Section with Vic Hett, Mike O'Haver, Ray Fuller, (Brother) Hett, Nan DuBost, Meldon Merrill, Bob Welch and Bob Brooks.
Olancha Peak is the highest peak in California south of Florence Peak (near Mineral King), and commands a tremendous view of the southern end of the range as well as much of the Death Valley ranges to the east. The peak lies on the Sierra crest just off the Pacific Crest Trail, and is often the first Sierra peak climbed by PCTers coming from the south. It is one of the 15 Emblem peaks in the Sierra, so designated because they dominate their surroundings. Driving north on US395, this peak gets your attention, announcing your arrival to the High Sierra.
We drove a good road to the Sears Pack Station and at 8 a.m. headed up a good wide trail to Olancha Pass. No water except at beginning and about half mile from the pass (good place for lunch).
From the pass we traversed on the ridge (crest) to Bear Trap Meadow. Learned later that there is a better rout up Summit Creek from the lunch stop. An alternate, slightly longer but easier, route drops over the pass to the Pacific Crest Trail which is followed to just below the peak. See description and pictures here.
NOTE: The trail to Olancha Pass is in the South Sierra Wilderness. Olancha Peak is in the Golden Trout Wilderness.
Bear Trap meadow was a good camp. (water would be gone in mid-summer). Reached camp by 3 p.m. (leisurely).
On the next day we left camp at 6 a.m. - reached peak by 9 - left at 9:45 - back to camp by noon - cars by 3:15 p.m. Peak climb class 2, not bad. Wonderful view from top.
Olancha Peak Chart
Olancha Peak Map via PCT
The above map shows the route via the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The PCT here hadn't been built yet in 1962. You can see the ridge/crest that we followed from Olancha Pass to Bear Trap Meadow where we camped and then on along the ridge/crest to the peak.
